Thoreau Wine Society's blog

A Regal and Historical French Commune: Bourgeuil

Dear Friends of the Thoreau Wine Society,

As we come into this most aromatic time of year, we should be ready for heightened senses, authenticity, complexity and nuance. Where better to find these complements to our busy lives than within the most beautiful wines?

This past year the desire for authenticity has permeated all aspects of my life; and for a time, my existential explorations made it impossible for me to write anything that felt, well, authentic. Luckily, as you've been reading, Bob Millman has carried the flag for the Thoreau Wine Society. Bob is a great mentor to me, a brilliant soul, a teacher of philosophy, an artist and pianist--and, especially, a wine connoisseur I trust thoroughly.

I might mention that for 30 years he runs an incredible tasting group; unlike many others which frankly feel sophomoric, the Executive Wine Seminars is a great place to experience exemplary verticals of exceptional wines (such as an upcoming retrospective of Domaine du Pegau, wow). Please have a glance at the fall schedule: EwsWine.com.

I bring you, as my first offer in many months, a little Bourgeuil--a lovely romantic flower of feminity coupling with grip and depth--a true harmony of both masculine and feminine characteristics coming together to create a complete wine.

Bourgeuil is a commune located in the heart of the Loire Valley, not far from the more famous Chinon, with soils mostly comprised of "Tuff", which is chalky clay and alluvial limestone, ideal for Cabernet Franc. Bertrand Galbrun is a young man I met thanks to a connection with a brilliantly
deranged fellow who handles the vineyard work for a famous Vouvray estate. He absolutely had to show me what made his juices flow in terms of wine-making in the Loire Valley, and his gut lies with the young (i.e. not in years but in inspiration) visionary growers--those that seek, well, I've
said many times, to express 'terroir'; when you nose the glass an unexpected bouquet greets you,  and you think, "What is this all about? Tell me more." I loved Bertrand's wines--because they are part of that 10 percentile of wine at this price that transcends the 'wine-lake' and does something integral.

Bertrand works organically in the vineyards, and without any yeast or enzymes or chapitalization; he only grows the regal Cabernet Franc, resulting in a wine which truly sings a very elegant tune. This wine does every bit as much for lush, delicious, totally washing you over with perfumed red fruit, depth and intensity, as any other well-made wine. But there is more: There is a floral lavender meets nuance meets high romance meets structure, balance, sexy earthiness, meets ... well, you must taste it. Highly wonderful.

Bertrand Galbrun Bourgeuil "Chatrois" (from a parcel of 20-year-old vines)

$19 per bottle

A Sumptuous Beaujolais

Dear Friends of the Vine,

A few weeks ago I tasted a wonderfully delicious Beaujolais Villages from the incomparable 2009
vintage. Many of you probably know that 2009 was a stellar vintage in France for red wine--and nowhere more than in the beautiful villages and vineyards of Beaujolais. The fruit matured into an ideal ripeness, neither over- nor underripe. The wines have structure, fresh acidity and that happy, relaxed richness which exemplifies perfect vineyard conditions. Our suggestion is to buy,
buy, buy the better 2009 Beaujolais. They will drink beautifully for at least 2-3 years.

The wine Mary and I want to recommend is a Beaujolais Villages from a highly regarded estate called Ruet. The domaine dates back to 1926--a relative newcomer by French standards--and has only recently been imported into the USA. Jean-Paul Ruet, the current proprietor, is a stickler
for details both in managing his vineyards and in making the wine. Ruet owns about 52 acres spread among the crus: Morgon, Brouilly, and Regine and of course several of the small villages whose grapes are blended into his Beaujolais Villages. Ruet’s vineyards are mostly south-facing
slopes on granite-rich soils. His vineyard practice is what the French call "Lutte Raisonnée"--which literally means 'reasoned struggle' in French and perhaps best translates into 'sustainable agricultural practices' in English. It is a sort of common-sense organic manner of farming.

Of course, what counts for all of us, in the final analysis, is the experience of a wine. And we can assure you that your experience of this luscious Beaujolais will be as satisfying as was ours.
'Satisfying' is perhaps an under-appreciated term: It signifies both sensual and intellectual pleasure. The best French wines uniquely appeal both to our senses and to our intellect. This is true for relatively humble wines such as Cotes du Rhone or Beaujolais, up to the grandest of Grand Cru Burgundies and Bordeaux.

You will notice in Ruet’s Beaujolais Villages a lovely balance between deep rich fruit and an underlying calm minerality and fine acidity which give the wine its old-world character. Drink a glass all by itself or with a roasted chicken. At this price you might want to buy a case. Pour it blind to some friends. They will never guess that it sells for less than $20.

Bob Millman
Thoreau Wine Society

2009 Domaine Ruet Beaujolais Villages $18.65

The Quality of a Grand Cru White Burgundy at a Village Price

Dear Friends,

Sorry about the long title but I did want to convey what this brilliant white Burgundy will deliver to those who are wise enough to buy the wine. Six months ago or so, Mary wrote up an excellent
Bourgogne Blanc from a small negociant firm, JanotsBos, whose wines had just come to our shores. Mary told the story and I will just give some highlights: This is a partnership between Thierry Janots, a highly regarded vineyard and cellar manager in Meursault, and Richard Bos, a Dutchman who owned Holland’s best wine pub until 2005 when he sold it to come to the object of his vinous passion: Burgundy. Right from the start their goal was to concentrate on white wines. Janots’
many contacts and high reputation have allowed them to buy fruit from excellent growers, from Santenay in the south to Pernand-Vergelesses in the northern limit of the Cote de Beaune. I have now tasted their wines on three separate occasions. Is there a JanotsBos “style”? If that means a characteristic taste and structure evident in all the wines, the answer is no. Rather, each wine tastes of its location--the very point of Burgundy after all.

The wine I want to draw to your attention is the 2008 Pernand-Vergelesses. This is a charming hilly village located between Savigny Les Beaune and the hill of Corton. It boasts nine premier cru
vineyards of which Ile de Vergelesses is the best known. The best white Pernands bear a notable resemblance to the famous Corton Charlemagne vineyards--at one-third the price. The whites from these vineyards are closer in structure and flavor to fine Chablis than to the wine of Meursault and Puligny. The minerality is palpable and the acidity bracing in a properly made Pernand-Vergelesses. The JanotsBos version has these qualities in spades. But it has something else: a density and persistence which gives the wine the distinction of a much more expensive wine from the region. Indeed, the resemblance to a Corton Charlemagne--at $100+ per bottle--is striking. The clarity and purity of the 2008 vintage is captured perfectly. This is an exciting wine which will deliver pleasure for years. This is not a fat, round, rich, creamy Chardonnay. There are few areas in the world that can bring out the ability of Chardonnay to capture the soil in which it is grown. Pernand-Vergelesses is one of those places. You will not taste a better version than the JanotsBos.

Enjoy this brilliant wine with the freshest fish, lobster, scallops and steamed mussels. Throw a couple of ounces of the wine into the pot with mussels; add a knob of butter, minced shallots and sprigs of tarragon. Steam for 4 minutes and serve. You and your mouth will be happy.

Bob Millman

2008 JanotsBos Pernand-Vergelesses Blanc $34.65