Dear Friends of the Vine,
Every so often Mary calls me and says, "I have a few bottles open; would you like to taste them?" I know Mary well enough--and she knows me well enough!--to know that she is not going to pour me some mediocre plonk. I do not like every wine she brings to me, but I like more than I do not like, and some really appeal to me.
Which brings me to an Italian Chardonnay that Mary served me which brought a smile to my face. When she told me the price, my smile turned into enthusiasm. Here is the story--and of course the story is not interesting to me or you unless the wine is terrific. The wine comes from the Collio,
Friuli's sub-region in extreme northeastern Italy. In fact the vineyards of Collio border on what is now called Slovenia. The name 'Collio' means small hills, the very hills on which mostly white wine varietals are planted. Sauvignon Blanc, Tocai and Malvasia are the pricincipal plantings in
Collio. But certain soils within this variegated district have proven most hospitable to Chardonnay. The producer--whose wines were new to me--is named Branko.
Branko is actually the first name of the man who started making wine in Collio in 1998. His last name is Erzetic (Italian you say? Sounds Slovenian to my ears!). His son Igor now supervises the winemaking while his demanding father works their vineyards. They own all of 15 acres and produce only about 2,000 cases per vintage. (Just to put things in perspective, Chateau Lafite makes 10-12 times the amount of wine as does Branko and sells its wines for 50 times more per bottle). 'Nough said on this score.
Quantity and price aside, the Branko Chardonnay is an exciting wine in a world which is awash in wines made from this well-known grape. A delightful bouquet greets your nose: apple, pear, wild flowers and just a hint of oak. Oak has become a dirty word among Wine Geeks. I find that absurd. Properly deployed, with the right grapes, the right kind of oak can contribute positively to the aroma and texture of a wine. No white wine varietal benefits from the careful deployment of oak barrel as does Chardonnay. 40% of the juice at Branko ferments in stainless steel while 60% ferments in 500 liter French barrels--but only for 7 months.
Like a good chef, Erzetic Branko knows just how much time is right to allow the best flavors and aromas to develop. Despite the 14% alcohol, the wine is vigorous, lively and dances professionally on the palate. The Branko Chardonnay reminded me of a really good Pouilly Fuisse but with the crisp acidity and bite of the high-altitude wines from the Collio district.
This is a wonderful wine for fish and is delicious enough to be served as an aperitif wine. As you can tell, I really liked this Italian beauty. You will like both the wine and the price--I guarantee it.
Bob Millman
2007 Branko Chardonnay, Collio
$22.45
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